BROKEN CHINA MOSAIC HOW TO

SPARKLING BOOK PAGE WREATH WITH PUNCH OUT FLORETTES

2010-11-10T23:16:00.000-08:00

These wreaths are dazzling! There is so much to love about this type of wreath (plus you are recycling ha!)! I could go on for ages about how stunning these are, but best you should make one so you can see for yourself...yes?!

Supplies needed:

Wreath form (any shape you desire) For this tutorial I used a 12" styro wreath form. This will yield a finished size of 16" in diameter.
Paper Punch (florette) I used a 3.5" punch
Book Pages (approximately 150)
Glue gun & glue sticks(low temp saves burned fingers)
Glitter* - any type works
Glue or glitter glue* (If you want a very subtle edge of glitter, then glitter glue alone will be fine.
Sewing Pins

*If you want a very subtle edge of glitter, than glitter glue alone will be fine.

Considerations before you begin:

You will need to dry the glittered edge florettes before you apply them onto the stryo wreath form; therefore, you will need a place to dry the florettes where smearing and smuging won't be a problem.

I use sewing pins and a styrofoam board to dry my florettes. I keep the boards vertical and the pins keep the florette from resting against the board.

The glitter gets EVERYWHERE.

Using newspaper or plastic sheeting to cover rugs/floors/carpeting will be very useful in clean up.

CREATING FLORETTS:

Tear full pages out of book paying special attention to both sides of the pages.

Punch out florettes from book pages; you should be able to get two (2) florettes per page.

You should yield two (2) florettes per page

Add glitter to the edges of florettes by dipping the edge of the florette in the glue (or glitter glue)

then roll the wet edge in the glitter

Sorry, I forgot to take the photos when I was glitzing up the florettes with silver!

Allow the florette edges to dry (approximately 3-6 hrs.)

Cover wreath form with book pages. Tear out a full page, then tear the page into smaller strips. (I use a ruler to guide the tear of each strip)

Take care to glue the ends together on the SAME side of the wreath

Slightly overlap each subsequent strip

Again, be sure to glue the strip on the same side of the wreath.

The side with glued edges is that the florettes will cover

This is the smooth side (no glued seams) that will be the back of the finished wreath.

Applying Florettes

Gently fold florette in half WITHOUT creasing the folded edge.

I use the end of a pen to accomplish this.

Then fold once more taking care not to crease the fold

Next, crush the pointed tip and apply to wreath form with a small amount of glue from your glue gun.

Apply the glue to the crushed tip and set in place.

Continue applying florettes until covered.

At this point, you can apply as many as you like. This 12" wreath form needed about 250 florettes

This 12" wreath form, 120 florettes

The fewer florettes the more visible the words will be.

After having made several, I prefer to lay the wreath form flat on the table and apply the floretttes to the inside and outter edge of the wreath form first. The table acts as my guide to prevent me from scrunching the florette against it.

This way the wreath will be flat against the wall when you hang it.

Last step! Create a hanger by gluing a strip of decorative ribbon and a sewing pin.

I like the bright collored tip on the pin, makes it easier to see when you are trying to hang it!

There you have it! You can use any color glitter, you can make one for the holidays, add decorative ribbon and bows, the possibilities are endless!

Here are a few others I have made...

Have fun with it! Please do let me know when you make one! I'd love to see it!

Cheers!

3-TIERED SERVER TRANSFORMATION

2010-10-15T22:43:00.001-07:00

This next makeover almost didn't happen. When I first saw this, I walked right by it. I immediately dismissed it as it wasn't close to what I wanted. A few steps later the light bulb *lit*

I've seen so many tiered trays, some made with vintage china plates, some in silver, some are wired baskets, I'm sure you've seen some of them. I've never seen one that I've fallen in love with that was in my almost non-existent budget.

So this is what I almost passed up last December....

Gorgeous...no?! NO, well, not yet! ;)

A Christmas present to myself. Price, $19.99. Bonus, it had all the glass beads and crystal drops *happy dance*. Did you notice how dusty the thing was?! Yuck! Fortunately the crystal drops were covered, unfortunately the crystal beads weren't. But for $20, what's a little soap & water...no?

Another drawback, notice that top tier is doing it's best impression of that tower in Pisa...

After I dismantled it, turns out the rod was bent. No worries, I'll go to Home Depot and let them figure it out. Seems you can't straighten them. So I bought a new rod, they cut it to size for me, so I was back in business. I have to mention, getting all the drops and bead swags off was a bloody pain!

Step 1: Base coat of Kilz original sealer/primer spray paint (Lowes or Home Depot) Applied to all parts, spacers, nut covers, finial and trays. No need to spray the nuts & rod, you never see them. (I'm sure there is a joke in there somewhere but I'm keeping my mouth shut! ha!)

Let it dry completely before you spray the other side.

I put the spacers on a wooden paint brush handle so I could rotate it as I sprayed

Step 2: Two coats of American Accents Blossom White. Let dry between coats.

How many coats you apply is to your taste. Just be sure to let it dry between coats ;)

Once everything is dry, it's time to reassemble and as you know, I didn't put it back exactally as it was...

And to think, I almost walk away without it! I so love it! Here it is without the faux hydrangea blooms & roses...

I have to add, painting something like this takes more work than painting furniture! All the drying time is a hassle, but I think it was worth it!

Hope I've inspired you to transform something from "not quite right" to "absolutely perfect"!

Cheers!

AQUA PAINT TREATMENT ~ HOW TO

2010-03-06T17:46:00.000-08:00

The aqua treatment on this urn fairly simple. There are 3 main steps, with an optional 4th:

Step 1: Base coat of Kilz original sealer/primer spray paint (Lowes/Home Depot). Let dry completely before moving on to Step 2.

Step 2: One coat of Design Master Robin's Egg #792 spray paint (Michaels). Let dry completely before moving on to Step 3.

Step 3: A mixture of uncolored glaze (Lowes) with a bit of American Accents, Blossom White paint (Home Depot). I use the glazing to tone down the Robin's Egg #792, as the color comes out very bright. If you like it that way, you can skip this step.

The glazing process is the "make or break" step. Brush on your glazing, then wipe it off. If you take off too much, you can always apply more and wipe some off.

Be sure you work in small areas, particularly where there is lots of dimention and detail. You don't want the glaze to dry before you get the chance to wipe some off.

You can buy the pre-tinted glazes. I prefer to use less white than what normally gets mixed in the the pre-mixed glazes.

When doing any kind of jardiniere, be sure to pay attention to the rim and the inside as well....

Optional Step

Step 4: Finish with a coat (or more) of lacquer spary. I use Rust-Oleum Lacquer. If I want to protect the finish without any shine, I would use Satin. For the look of ceramics, use High Lustre.

How many coats you apply is to your taste. Just be sure to let it dry between coats.

I elected not to use a lacquer finish.

Now, once you have achieved the desired result, it's time to put it to use! You can leave it on its own or fill it with flowers, faux or real! Here I'm going to fill it with loads of faux pink roses...

Voila!

Don't forget to take a photo to show off your creation! I'd love to see it!

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at enchantedrosestudio@yahoo.com!

Cheers!

HOW TO MAKE A STYROFOAM BASE WREATH

2010-02-21T19:35:00.000-08:00

I have received a few inquiries about how I create my wreaths. So I thought it would be a good idea to add it to my "How To" library of tutorials.

You can use any material that you can safely glue onto the ribbon covered base. Seashell and faux flowers are quite popular. Other items are fabric flowers, buttons, rhinestones, jewelry, faux pearls, nuts, candy, just to name a few.

Keep in mind that if you want to use heavier materials use a smaller wreath base or use a stronger adhesive. If I were to create a larger seashell wreath over 15" I would use a much strong adhesive, such as E6000 or gorilla glue.

There are many shapes and sizes that are available from hobby/craft stores as well as online craft supply stores.

Once you have selected your shape and size, gather all your materials:

For this project I am using:

8" Styrofoam wreath base
1" Grosgrain Ribbon (about 2yards)
Low temperature glue stick
Seashells varying from 0.75" to 2"
Starfish focal 2.5" x 2.5"
My wreath hanger is a 1.5" satin ribbon in soft aqua

Start by wrapping the ribbon around your base:

Cover the sides and top with seashells. Depending on your desired design, you can outline the edges first. For this project, I want a very random, free flowing result.

Applying the seashell is a bit like a jig-saw puzzle. I work in sections keeping the gaps to a minimum.

Once the top and size are completely covered, use smaller shells to cover or balance the wreath.

When you are satisfied with the overall appearance, add your hanging ribbon

Check the back (see how nice and finished it looks)...

Add the bow and your beautiful creation is ready to hang!

The main reason why I wrap my wreath base with ribbon is to camouflage the base. I find that the raw styrofoam is unsightly and looks sloppy when the base peeks through. The back also looks unfinished and unattractive.

I try to match the ribbon with the overall color. If I cannot match it, I try to find a color that blends and enchances my materials.

An easy match, white faux pearls with white satin ribbon. A work in progress....

The ribbon is also beneficial when you are creating a wreath that will be viewed from all sides (back included). Here is a two-sided Christmas wreath I made for a client (actually I made 8 of them for her windows) using double red satin ribbon and red faceted beaded garland, with a green satin ribbon for hanging.

Lastly, think about how and where you will be hanging the wreath. You can use ribbon, or create a loop with wire. If you are using wire, affix it first, then wrap the base with ribbon.

For a smaller size wreaths, you can glue the hanging ribbon on. Here is what I did with the button wreath...

I used glued some sheer ribbon for hanging, and made it look pretty by gluing a button to hide the ribbon edge:

I hope this has been of some help for you. Good luck with your styrofoam wreath project! Don't forget to post some photos for us!

If you have any questions, please feel free to email me @ enchantedrosestudio@yahoo.com!

HOW TO MAKE A SEASHELL FRAME

2010-02-02T21:17:00.000-08:00

Basic Supplies:
Frame
Seashells ~ assorted types and sizes
Focal ~ in this project I used a Star fish
Adhesive ~ you can use glue stick or any adhesive that will dry clear. For this project I used industrial strength E6000. You can find it online and at most hobby or hardware stores.
Plastic disposable gloves
Primer ~ Spray or brush on
Paint ~ Spray or bush on
Dust Mask

Note: If using E6000 industrial adhesive, be sure your work area is well ventilated.

If you will not be painting your frame, just give it a light sanding to give the glue something to "grab" onto.

Choosing a frame ~ This works for any type of frame, be it for photos, mirror, or black/chalk board, as long as you have ample room for the shells. I look for frames with ample recessed areas for a more polished look.

The frame in this project is 13"x11" with a 2.25" recessed area (3" in the corners).

I used an assortment of seashells that measured from approximately 1/2" up to 2"; the corner shells are 3".

I used a 3.5" x 4" starfish for my focal. I wanted a beachy white cottage theme with only a hint of color. I bought the bag of assorted mix shells (about $7.00) at Michaels.

This is a larger frame (13"x11") so I used approximately 80 shells of varying sizes (approximately 2 netted packages)

This frame was originally black. I lightly sanded the frame to remove the sheen, primed it with KILZ white pigmented sealer, primer stainblocker. Once the primer was dry, I applyed the finish top coat to only areas that would not be covered by the seashells. I used American Accents Blossom White (by Rust-oleum).

Once everything was dry, I laid out some of the shell to get a "feel" for the design and to make sure the shells I wanted to use would work. For this project, I wanted a more flowing, carefree layout...almost as if I just tossed them onto the frame.

Once satisified, I began gluing the shells in place.

I used the larger shells first and filled in with the smaller shells.

If you are using E6000, allow the adhesive to dry flat for 24 hours to avoid any shifting.
Once the adhesive is dry, your frame is ready for use.

If you have any questions, feel free to email me anytime!

Cheers!

BEADED HOLIDAY REINDEER

2009-12-01T10:00:00.000-08:00

Making a beaded reindeer is not complicated at all. What you need most of is time, patience, and lots of glue gun sticks! ha!

I bought several paper mache reindeer at Michael's after holiday christmas sale...70% off woohoo! Here are the BEFORE....

Now, if you get the regular "brown" paper mache (unfinished) reindeer, you should spray paint it as close to your beads color as possible...unless you want to go for something art deco.

Next, you need your beaded garland, lots of em! I used a dozen packs of 10mm x 18ft (which I also bought at a few years ago at Hobby Lobby's Christmas holiday sale for 75% off). I prefer the faceted beads because they really catch the light (the dimmer the light, the more they twinkle!)

I also prefer using these beads because they have the smaller bead in between each faceted bead; helps to make nice, tight, rows.

I start wrapping the beaded garland right at the bottom of the neck and work my way to the back, then go up the neck or do the legs; be sure to always start where the beads are so that it has a seamless appearance. Make sure your first string is straight....

and off set the 10mm beads so the sit close to the previous strand...

Continue to glue and wrap...and glue and wrap, and glue and wrap, and glue and wrap and glue....and on and on.......and on....

I like to do the antlers as well; give the reindeer a more uniformed, balanced look...

You can cut shorter strips of beads where you need it. It doesn't really show any direction when you are finished...

When you are (finally) finished gluing and wrapping, this is what you can expect your finished reindeer to look like...

...a rear view....

(the gold reindeer looks as though it is saying..."do these beads make my butt look big?!) ha!

Now, remember I said the faceted beads really sparkle in dim light...my crappy camera did the best it could...here are a few photos....
lights on dim...very dim...

in this next photo, you can see them in the lower right corner sparkling away! (I was taking photos of my chandelier I decorated for the holidays for another post)

before and after...

There you have it! Good luck and be sure to show me your fabulous holiday beaded reindeer! If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me @ enchantedrosestudio@yahoo.com!

Thanks so much for visiting me! I love reading your comments and suggestions! If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask!

Cheers!

HOW TO GROUT YOUR MOSAIC SURFACE

2009-08-05T12:32:00.000-07:00

Now that you have adhered your tiles to your mosaic base, it is time to grout your piece. Before you begin I'd like to offer some helpful hints that will make your grouting experience as well as the clean up a more satisifying experience.

One important factor to consider ~ once you start the grouting, you must see it though the finish. Grout is much more difficult to remove the more it cures.

No matter how careful you are, grouting is messy. Weather permitting, I grout out on the patio.

It is best to gather all the supplies you will need before you begin. Otherwise, you may be tracking wet grout throughout your home.

YOU WILL NEED

Grout ~ sanded or unsanded (I prefer sanded) I use Laticrete. Lowes carries it.
Weldbond Adhesive ~ you can find this on ebay, more expensive smaller bottles are available at hardware or hobby stores. I add Weldbond to reinforce and strengthen the grout.
Small container with a lid ~ used for mixing grout. I save 24oz Sour Cream containers. You may store unused grout for about a week. I try to use it within 72 hours.
Wooden paint stick for mixing grout (thank you Lowes!)
Latex gloves to protect your hands. Grout will dry out and possible irratate your skin.
Small float ~ you can substitute this with a stuff rubber spacula.
Painters Tape
Bottled water ~ in some areas, tap water can slightly discolor your grout. You only need a small amount of bottled water for mixing the grout.
Paper towels
Spray Bottle ~ you can use tap water to fill the spray bottle
Pail or bucket ~ fill with tap water
Dremel
Electrical extension cord; if your Dremel is cordless, this is not needed.
Plastic sheets for covering table work surface or floor surface.

TAPING OFF
Before you mix your grout, prepare your mosaic base by taping off areas that you do not want the wet grout to come in contact with. Painter's Tape works best. For this piece, I have several areas that I will need to tape off; the top edge, the apron under the top an the bottom shelf and around the legs.

I used a plastic bag to cover the bottom shelf and secured it with tape. When you are grouting a multi-level piece, always grout starting at the top and work your way down.

MIXING GROUT
Be sure to put on your latex gloves! Pour approximately 1 cup of grout (about 1/3 of the container), 3 tablespoons of Weldbond adhesive, and 2 tsp of bottled water in your container.

As a general rule, it is always best to mix too much grout than not enough. You can always store the excess grout for a future project. Best way to store it is to moisten some paper towels and place it on top of the remaining grout and close it with the appropriate lid. You want seal it as air tight as possible. It should stay useable for about 10 days. After that, it will begin to harden.

Using your wooden stick, mix grout thoroughly. It should be ever so slightly less than the consistency of peanut butter.

Once the mix is ready, spread the grout to thoroughly cover the top and around the edge. Be sure to push the grout into all the cracks and crevices of the surface and the edges.

If you feel the grout becoming too thick, take your spray bottle had give the surface a light mist of water, then spread it around by hand. Once your have covered the surface thoroughly with the grout, use your float to lightly squeegee the surface to remove the excess grout. Try not to press too hard. The goal is to keep the grout level to the china tiles.

Angle the float and use a criss-cross motion to clean off excess grout. To prevent excess grout from building up on the float, you should continuously clean off the float by dipping it in a pail of water, wipe off any moisture with a paper towel, then continue to squeegee until the surface appears level.

SINGLE SURFACE ~ If you are grouting a single-level surface, allow the piece to rest for 10 minutes. Skip down to "CLEANING MOSAIC TILES"

MULTI-LEVEL SURFACES ~ If you are grouting a multi-level surface, apply the grout to the next area; be sure to work from the top, down. On this piece, the apron is grouted before the bottom shelf.

When grouting a multi-level surface, mist grouted surfaces every 15-20 minutes while you are working on other areas. Misting prevents the grout surface from drying to quickly. The more evenly the grout dries, the strong the bond. Once you have finished grouting all areas, it is time to clean the grout film off the mosaic tiles.

CLEANING MOSAIC TILES ~ You should see a filmy haze over the surface. Clean the haze off the tiles by lightly misting a small area and clean the surface of the tiles using the paper towel. Take care not to rub the paper towels into the grout lines.

You will see the tile become more vibrant as you clean off the film. Continue cleaning until all the mosaic tiles until they are shiny and free of grout or haze. Again, take care not to remove grout lower than the height of the mosaic tiles.

To remove the Painters Tape, light spritz the edge with water, then score around the edge with a dull knife. I use an old butterknife and I work in sections. This enables you to remove the painters tape without removing too much grout from under the tiles.

Should you inadvertently remove any grout, using the reserved grout, carefully replace the grout taking care not to get any wet grout on your surface. If you do, immediately wip it off with a damp paper towel.

Once you have cleaned off the film and any excess grout, lightly run your hand over the surface. Dremel any sharp corners you encounter. Take care not to dremel off any of the grout lines or too much of the tile. A quick light touch with the dremel is all that is required.

It is a good idea to mist the surfaces for 15-20 minutes for the first hour or two, so that the grout will dry more evenly.

Let the piece cure for at least 72 hours before you seal the grout. Should you use the piece before you seal it, take care not to spill anything onto the surface as the grout is still vulnerable to stains. Once it is sealed, simply wipe any dirt or spills with a damp cloth.

Now is a good time to clean up your work area then sit back and enjoy your beautiful creation!

Remember, should you have any questions or comments, I am always happy to help!

Please note, my content is copyright with exclusive rights. Please do not copy my content (text, photographs, illustrations) into any printed form or any form of publication.

Happy Grouting!

BROKEN CHINA MOSAIC (PIQUE ASSIETTE) ~ BASIC STEPS

2009-08-03T07:47:00.000-07:00

When I first started creating broken china mosaics, a.k.a. Pique Assiette, there was very little information available. I had many questions and very few answers or helpful hints to reference.

I've created this How To to share some helpful hints and instructions that I learned through trial and error.

I am more than aware that art is a very subjective word. I just want to clarify my distinctions. My form is smooth, level, surfaces. I use professional grade grout and adhesives, I nip my own china and create my own focals. It is my intention to create pieces that will last through generations.

If you want to create heirloom pieces, here are a few key things to keep in mind:

FIRST: DO NOT SMASH YOUR PLATES WITH HAMMERS!! Leave the hammer to the nails.

SECOND: QUALITY MOSAICS REQUIRE TIME. Do not expect to finish a quality piece in a day or even a weekend. Mosaic is similar to knitting, it takes a bit of time for it to come out the way you want. Like knitting, it is possible to put the project down during the design stage (gluing/adhering tiles to the base) and return to it later. Unlike knitting, you can't take it everywhere you go.

THE BASICS STEPS:

1. Prep Your Mosaic Base ~ this is where you need to prime, seal, and paint the base you intend to mosaic. After the finish coat dries, it is time to mosaic. Do not apply a top coat in the area where you will put the mosaic. It is a good idea to apply a primer over the area to protect the grout from moisture. Some bases need only a little sanding to give the thinset/mortar something to grab onto.

2. Creating/Selecting Mosaic Tiles, Mosaic Focals, Laying Out Design ~ this is where you gather all of your nipped china tiles and focals, determine which method of you will use to create your Mosaic design and layout a design. You can always nip tiles as you go, but I encourage the basic china tiles and focals be laid out.

If you are using the direct or my direct press method, it is not necessary to layout all of your fill pieces; unless you are going to use different color fillers and want to be sure you are satisfied with the color combination. This is also your opportunity to see which tiles are the thickest. Do try to avoid extremes in the widths.

If you are using the indirect method, this is the time you will layout the design including the fill pieces before you transfer them face down into a mold or onto your contact paper or mosaic mount.

3. Adhering Tiles To the Mosaic Base ~ For direct or my direct press methods, this is whether you are using mortar or glue, be sure to always begin with the thickest focal or tiles first. These will be your anchor and sets the height for the rest of the tiles and focals. Use glue to set the anchors and thinset/mortar for the focals and tiles that are thinner.

For the indirect methods, this is where you will pour the wet concrete into the mold, or press the prepared section onto the mortared base.

4. Prep for Grouting ~ after the thinset/mortar has set for at least 24 hours, it is time to tape off the base to protect the paint finish from the wet grout. Painters tape is most effective.

5. Grouting The Mosaic Base ~ Mix and apply the grout, let dry for 15-20 minutes then clean the film off the tiles and focals. Remove any painters tape. Now is the time to add any gout to gaps or spaces you may have missed. It is also a good time to file or dremel any sharp edges. Sharp edges must be tended to before you seal the piece.

6. Sealing the Mosaic Design ~ After the grout has cured (at least 72 hours) it is time to thoroughly seal the grout to protect it from stains and moisture. If you haven't filed or dremeled the sharp edges, be sure to do it before sealing.

7. Signing Your Mosaic ~ Always sign and date your creations. I use gold or silver paint pens. I usually sign the bottom of the pieces directly under the mosaic design.

There you have it. My 7 steps to creating a beautiful mosaic piece that will be cherished for years to come.

I've provided the following step-by-step detailed instruction that will guide you through the different process and help you achieve your desired results. Just click on the topic you need.

MOSAIC STYLE ~ PIQUE ASSIETTE DEFINED

MOSAIC METHODS ~ DIRECT, INDIRECT, MY DIRECT PRESS

HOW TO NIP CHINA TILES AND FOCALS

HOW TO CREATE A SMOOTH AND LEVEL MOSAIC SURFACE

SAFETY FIRST ~ AN IMPORTANT FIRST STEP

HOW TO GROUT YOUR MOSAIC SURFACE

Please feel free to save my blog as I will be adding more information as often as I can. For now, those are the most important instructions and help hints that will definitely help you get started. You can always find a list of my How To's at the top of the left margin of my blog page.

Please note, my content is copyright with exclusive rights. Please do not copy my content (text, photographs, illustrations) into any printed form or any form of publication.

If you have any questions, please feel free to email me anytime. I am more than happy to help!

Happy creating!

5 MINUTE CENTERPIECE ~ VINTAGE POSY UNDER GLASS

2009-07-29T17:27:00.000-07:00

In my first Tablescape Thursday post, hosted by Susan at Between Naps on the Porch, I received loads of compliments and inquiries on how I did my centerpiece.

This is very simple and has a great impact. Truth be told, I threw this together in 5 minutes. It is very easy and you can use whatever you have available.

Here are a couple of photos of the original that I used in my tablescape...

First, you need to gather the items you will need.

Any bowl, pot, or container will do, as long as the base of the pedestal fits and sit well in it. You can also use a platter, tray, or plate.

A glass covered dessert pedestal (the base need not be glass)

The vintage Adderley Rose Posy (you can put anything under the glass as long as it will fit and doesn't look smushed!)

For this project, I'm using faux roses.

I almost forgot, I use tissue to give the dessert pedestal a level surface. It's easy to adjust. You can also use styrofoam if you need to raise the pedestal a bit.

Insert the pedestal into the base

Place the posy onto the pedestal, make sure it is secure

Arrange the flowers all around the the top of the container

Voila! Your centerpiece is done!

Birdseye view

This is very simple and your options are unlimited!

I used this smaller arrangement on my tablescape because my space was limited. This can be as large or as small as you need. I have done a large one for the center and two complimenting smaller ones for each side of the table. It doesn't necessarily have to be for a centerpiece for a table, you can place it anywhere for a decorative and interestig touch.

You are only limited by what will fit between the container and the pedestal.

Instead of a dessert pedestal, you can use a candleholder or pillar; as long as it will fit into your base. If it isn't high enough, use styrofoam to raise it.

If you have any questions or have other suggestions, please feel free to leave a comment to share.

Hugs,

MOSAIC STYLE ~ PIQUE ASSIETTE DEFINED

2009-06-23T11:51:00.000-07:00

When most people hear the term "pique assiette mosaic" they automatically think of a mosaic created from broken china.

I'd like clarify this particular form of mosaic art. The following definition best describes this wonderful art form.

Pique Assiette - a french term meaning "stolen from plate." Pieces of broken china, pottery, glass, buttons, figurines, and jewelry are cemented onto a base to create a new surface.

Almost any form can be used as a base and any combination of pieces can be applied. The design is restricted only by the individual's imagination.

So you see, there are no right or wrong ways when creating Pique Assiette mosaics.

Following are some examples, and maybe some inspiration, for you.

I hope I've provided you with some inspiration and encouragement to create your first Pique Assiette mosaic.

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask me. I am more than happy to make your first experience creating your own Pique Assiette mosaic successful and rewarding.

Please note, my content is copyright with exclusive rights. Please do not copy my content (text, photographs, illustrations) into any printed form or any form of publication.

Happy creating!

CERAMIC VASE MAKEOVER

2009-06-21T14:39:00.000-07:00

When I saw this black little vase on the shelf in the thrift store, it was screaming makeover! I thought it's curvy rim and it's three little footers were more soft and feminine and its black color spoke to a more masculine nature.

I knew instantly I wanted to make it softer, more feminine, compliment its dainty nature.

Since it is made of ceramic, I examined it for any cracks for flaws. It was in perfect condition.

I removed the floral foam and cleaned out the inside.

Underneath was a sticker that needed to be removed. If you've ever had trouble removing the adhesive residue from stickers, try using a spritz of WD-40. Spray it over the tag or adhesive residue, wait a minute or two, then scrape it off. Once all removed, use a little rubbing alcohol to clean away any dirt and grease.

It works great on even the gooey-est adhesives!

I lightly sanded the surface so that the primer would have something to latch onto.

Be sure to sand around every area to be primed.

I dust off any residue from sanding with either a paper towel or cloth. When I paint or as in this case, spray paint items such as a vase or tray, I use the inside of a large cardboard box. This helps contain the most from the spray as well as prevent any wind from misdirecting your spray.

I used Kilz Original Sealer-primer stainblocker. I like to first spray the inside and around exterior body are that is not in contact with any surface. Be sure to shake the spray can vigoriously, hold it about 10-12" from the base and spray in a steady back-and-forth motion. I will quickly re-shake the can after each release.

Once it is completely dry (in about 30 minutes), I place the vase upside down on a holder; in this case I'm using an old candlestick.

This prevents any pooling of paint around the bottoms or footers. I then spray the bottom, and around the body. (The easel in the backgroud was also being primed).

Once it dries (in about 30 minutes), I make sure all areas are adequately primed. Since I'm going from dark to light, I don't want any black showing through or affecting the new lighter color.

The finish color I selected for this vase was a mix of my own. I used American Accent Blossom White (Lowes) mixed with Delta Ceramcoat Coastline Blue (Michaels). I gradually mix the blue into the blossom white until I reach the desired hue. I like using American Accents with the Delta Creamcoat as it ususally dries the exact same color as when wet (no surprises).

I painted the finished color with a disposable foam brush, painting the inside and outter rim first, then turned upside down to do the exterior and bottom. I let it dry for at least 8 hours so the paint will cure. Once it is cured I then spray a clear finish coat. You can use a mat (non-shine) or a high gloss. I want some shine on the finish so I used Rust-oleum Lacquer High Lustre Coating on the rim and the exterior.

There you have it! A brand new pretty blue ceramic vase!

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to post them. I love hearing from you!

Enjoy!

SAFETY AN IMPORTANT FIRST STEP!

2009-06-01T09:42:00.000-07:00

Safety first is an absolute must! Since most statistic show that the majority of injuries occur in the home. I cannot stress enough how imporant it is that you should take the extra steps to insure your safety as well as your health.

When you are nipping plates and glass tiles, painting, gluing, using adhesives, mixing grout, you are exposing yourself to potential injury, infection, or illness. Appropriate protective clothing and equpment are essential.

Glass and tile shards tend to fly off in all directions. Most of that can be controlled by using a tray to nip plates over. I use a cardboard tray (found in most garden centers). This way most of the tiny shards will collect in the cardboard tray, making it easier to toss into the trash bin.

Protect your eyes! The splinters and small pieces from plates and glass tiles can be extremely sharp and very painful. Protective eyewear is a must to protect your eyes, as these splinters can fly towards your face.

Mouth and nose filter masks prevent dust and fumes form entering your lungs. Without this protection you risk infection or potential illness.

Rubber gloves or surgical gloves should be worn at all times when handling the tiles, adhesive, mortar, thinset, grout, colorants, paints, and when sanding. Some of the adhesive and grout mixtures are acidic and can irritate your hands. Splinters from broken tiles and glass will also be a concern. Be sure to wear long a long sleeve shirt.

Surgical gloves are often better for more intricate work such as laying china and glass tiles. They are tighter fitting and allow you to handle smaller pieces easier. They are generally made of latex with or without a powder coating inside. These are cheap and best of all, disposable.

Keep your creative process a safe one by applying these simple safety measures.

Stay Well and Happy!

Ciao,

Please note, my content is copyright with exclusive rights. Please do not copy my content (text, photographs, illustrations) into any printed form or any form of publication.

FOUNTAIN MAKEOVER

2009-06-01T06:41:00.000-07:00

I got this fountain a couple of years ago. It is made of three pieces, base, bowl, and crown. Since I didn’t want an electrical cord running across the terrace, I repurposed it into a beautiful planter.

The original color was limestone. It was spray painted with faux stone paint; (not by me lol) which was made for indoor use. It didn’t fair well and was peeling badly and by this spring it looked just awful.

I wanted to try to restore it to the original limestone color but that didn’t work out. So I gave it a good base using Krylon’s Indoor Outdoor primer in white and finished it with a coat of Rust-oleum spray paint in almond. I did one coat of the primer and two coats of the finish.

I let them completely dry in between coats. The almond color was the closest I could find to limestone. My hope is that it will age well.

I gave this adorable little girl a makeover at the same time I did the fountain

I just recently got this freebie. She’s in bad shape as well. Soon she’ll look as fresh and pretty as her sister.

Enjoy

MOSAIC METHODS DEFINED - DIRECT, INDIRECT, AND (MY) DIRECT PRESS

2009-06-01T04:43:00.000-07:00

Generally, there are two basic methods to creating a mosaic piece: direct method and the indirect method. In working with vintage china and the varying types of bases.

I have also included a brief description of my Direct Press Method.

DIRECT METHOD

The direct method is where the mosaic tile pieces are adhered face up, one by one, directly onto the surface you are going to mosaic (such as table tops, trays, birdhouses, etc.).

This is a much faster method. The disadvantage is; if you tiles are not equal in thickness, the result will be a rough and uneven mosaic surface. If an uneven surface is a planned aspect of your design, then the direct method using china tiles with varying thickness will give you a jagged result.

INDIRECT METHOD

The indirect method is where the all the tiles, or sections of the design tiles, are temporarily fixed face down into a removable base (such as cement molds) or backing (such as contact paper or brown mounting paper).

When using a mold, the entire design is laid out face down into the mold, then the mold is filled with mortar or cement; when dry, the mold is removed to reveal the face of the mosaic design. You can lay the tiles directly onto the bottom of the mold or use the backing to ensure a successful release once the mortar or cement has dried. If placing the tiles face down directly onto the mold, a releasing agent is first applied, such as Pam, silicone spray or Vaseline.

Backing material, such as brown mounting paper, mosaic mount, contact paper is useful when working in sections of a large base, such as murals and sculpture. The tiles are places face down onto the adhesive backing and then pressed into a prepared adhesive bed on the base. Once the adhesive (such as thinset or mortar) is set, the backing is removed from the tile face to revel the mosaic design.

The advantage of the indirect method is you can create a very smooth, flat surface. You can also create and assemble the design ahead of time and affix it to you base later.

One disadvantage is if the pattern or color of your tiles are not the on both the face and the back, since you must assemble the design face down, extra care and time must be taken to ensure your pieces are in the proper order before filling the mold with mortar/cement.

MY DIRECT PRESS METHOD

The Direct Press method is of my own creation that was born from necessity. When creating a broken china mosaic, the Direct Method is the likely choice. The problem, since china pieces are usually of varying thickness, it was difficult to achieve a level surface.

I knew I could build up the thinner pieces with thinset, but how can I be sure I’m setting each buttered piece firmly onto the mosaic base at an equal height. I obviously needed a guide of some sort.

My solution was a flat, scrap piece of wood (the “Press”) and my thickest pieces of nipped china. I would then press the freshly buttered piece only as far as the thickest pieces (anchor) allowed, thus resulting in a uniform height.

The disadvantage to my Direct Press method is that it takes much more time to complete your project.

Each method has both advantages and disadvantages. There is no wrong or right choice. It is up to you to decide which method will work best for the base you will be using and your desired result.

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a comment or email me for clarification or more information.

Please note, my content is copyright with exclusive rights. Please do not copy my content (text, photographs, illustrations) into any printed form or any form of publication.

Ciao!

HOW TO NIP CHINA TILES AND FOCALS

2009-05-29T20:05:00.000-07:00

I have a few tips some of you may find useful if you want to convert your pretty vintage plates into pretty china tiles and focals

Now, most how to websites offer the hammer method. I beg you to leave the hammer to the nails and get some wheel nippers! There are some good deals on ebay and you can find them in any hobby store. I purchased my first pair at Michaels years ago. Lowes and Home Depot (and other national chain hardware stores) do not carry the wheel nippers, but they do offer other kinds of tile nippers that a more advanced artist may find useful.

I have five different kinds of nippers; each provides a specific use. But for beginners, start with the wheel nippers, they can accommodate most tasks.

Now before you being nipping, get organized. It is helpful to have contact paper handy. I like to use Mosaic Mount; yes, it's more expensive but the benefits are well worth it to me.

Mosaic mount does not leave any residue on your nipped tiles and it does not dry out. I have some patters on Mosaic Mount that have been there for over 3 years at least! (Now, just between us, in an emergency situation, I have been known to use the blue painters tape; don't tell anyone ok!? ;-p)

You can find Mosaic Mount in rolls or sheet. I buy the rolls; more cost effective and more flexible for varying size layouts. It also makes creating stepping stones a breeze! (I will go into detail about creating beautiful stepping stones in the near future).

Have some plastic zip lock bags or paper bowls handy to keep your tiles organized as you go. (I keep 3 large gallon bags handy, one for the bottom rims that have any floral design on them…don’t ask my why...I dunno lol!; another for the white pieces for filler, and a third to collect any hallmarks on the bottom.)

Ok, now you have your wheel nippers and your contact paper or Mosaic Mount, make sure you nip your plates in areas where you can clean up easily; tiny little shards fly everywhere! Do not forget to wear safety glasses!

HOW TO NIP STRAIGHT TILES:

You can use these for the edges of your base, or to make a circular border around a focal. This is where mosaic mount or contact paper come in handy! The trick is to nip halves into quarters. for this illustration I am using a 10" dinner plate; normally you would use two hands (one to nip, one to hold the plate; but I need one hand to take the pic ha!. Please use both hands when nipping!).

First nip to divide the plate in half keep your nippers as straight as you can. Next nip one of the halfs into half; that will be your starting quarter.

Take one of the quarters and start nipping your straight tile pieces. Keep your nips as straight as you can. Keep your quarters in order, so that you can place each tile onto the mosaic mount.

You can place each tile face down or face up (back of tile onto the adhesive). This process is fairly simple and you be a pro at it in no time at all! Do be sure to save any hallmarks and flat white center pieces for future use.

HOW TO NIP OUT A FOCAL

Focals are the center design of the plate. To nip them out successfully, you will have to get around the bottom rim of the plate. The bottom rim can be a bugga!

For this example, I'm using smaller vintage plate that is about 4" in diameter. Since the center is the only design, I need not worry about rim pieces; but I will still save them for future use.

Your first nip will be an angled nip. Try to keep the nippers parallel to the rim.

After the first nip, work your way to the outside edge of the bottom rim. Once there, continue to nip all the way around the plate.

Turn the center over and place your nipper against the inside of the rim. Use the inside of the rim as your guide as you nip around the center.

Then, keeping the same angle, nip around the inside of the rim.

Voila! You have your focal!

To achieve a smooth circle, you can nip down the more pointed areas, or use a dremel to smooth them out. I usually just nip. The face rims can easily be nipped into useable pieces. (These outer rim pieces are great to use on the edge of a table, gives a cleaner finish.)

This method works most of the time for me. Once in a while the plate doesn’t want to cooperate, c’est la vie!

Occassionally you will have a plate with both a beautiful design around the face rim as well as the center. Unfortunately, you will have to decide which you want more. The example shown took two plates total; once plate for the focal, one for the face rim design.

With a little practice, you will have no problem learning how to use your wheel nippers for the best results. Just remember, you are creating a mosaic, there are no wrong nips!

Please feel free to post your comments or questions on here, or email me anytime!

Please note, my content is copyright with exclusive rights. Please do not copy my content (text, photographs, illustrations) into any printed form or any form of publication.

Happy Nippin!!

CREATING A SMOOTH & LEVEL MOSAIC SURFACE USING DIRECT PRESS METHOD

2009-05-28T02:32:00.000-07:00

It is universally acknowledged that mosaic is one art form that people are more inclined to touch than any other. We are drawn to it, we want to run our hands along it's smooth cool surface. There is something calming and sensual about it.

Your hands are the best judge in determining whether it is a well crafted, functional, quality mosaic. It can be very discouraging to to spend hours creating a piece (or spend your hard earned money purchasing a piece) only to watch people grimace as they touch it or quickly pull their hands away from it because of sharp or uneven areas of the surface.

We want to incorporate art and beauty onto a function piece that we use our every day lives. The last thing I want is a surface that scratches or cuts my fingers, or worse still, topples my glass of wine!

Before I address how to level and smooth your mosaic surface, I feel I should briefly mention a couple pointers that both a beginner and novice should always consider before tackling a mosaic project.

First, a bit about your mosaic "base". Contrary to popular belief, a birdhouse, small or large, is NOT the best beginner or novice project. I'm sure many of the novices out there have already found out. It is far more difficult to mosaic a birdhouse and end up with a piece that has smooth level surfaces and clean edges, similar to heirloom quality pieces.

May I suggest that it is best to start with a smooth flat surface and a raised edge.

When you are ready to tackle how to create finished edges, a lazy susan or small table is ideal.

When choosing a small table, try to select one that has nice lines and curves; such as queen ann style legs or turned legs. It will add to the overall appearance of your mosaic piece! Check thrift stores and flea markets for incredible deals.

Before you even being to adhere your first china tile, be sure you have primed and then painted the piece. It is far more difficult to paint your piece after you have finished laying your mosaic design. Be sure to cover the area of the base you will place the mosaic, do take care not to get any of the top coat in that area.

CREATING A LEVEL SURFACE: DIRECT PRESS METHOD

The Direct Press method is of my own creation that was born from necessity. When creating a broken china mosaic, the Direct Method is the likely choice. The problem, since china pieces are usually of varying thickness, it was difficult to achieve a level surface.
I knew I could build up the thinner pieces with thinset, but how can I be sure I’m setting each buttered piece firmly onto the mosaic base, and of equal height. I obviously needed a guide of some sort. My solution was a flat, scrap piece of wood (the “Press”) and my thickest pieces of nipped china (tile). I would then press the freshly buttered piece only as far as the thickest pieces (anchor) allowed, thus resulting in a uniform height.

How to determine the size of your “Press”:

Your "Press" should be straight and free of curves, warps, or holes and the width and length should be slightly larger than the area you are working in. The Press should be sturdy enough to not bend or give when applying a moderate amount of pressure.

Chances are you will need more than one press; one for a larger areas, one for smaller areas.

Determining the best adhesive for varying thickness of china pieces:

For the thickest china pieces (that are of equal thickness) you can butter a thin layer of thinset onto the back of the china piece. You may also use a liquid adhesive such as Weldbond or Gorilla Glue. I prefer to use Weldbond, it doesn’t add additional thickness the way the thinset would.

For thinner china pieces use thinset. While thinset is an adhesive, it enables you to build a thin piece to equal the thickness of thickest pieces you will be using.

Buttering thinset onto the back of china pieces:

You will quickly develop a "feel" for how much to butter onto the back of the thinner china pieces. Too little, your thinner pieces will not be secure, which will cause the china piece to wobble, tilt, and sink into the thinset. Too much, you will have more to clean up between the china pieces.

Using the Press:

In this example, the thickest pieces is the heart focal. The focal was set in place using Weldbond. All subsequent thinner pieces will be "pressed" to the same height of the focal.

Since the next tile is thinner than the focal, butter a bit of thinset on the back of the thinner tile, then gently place it onto the base. Next, hold the press over the thickest (anchor) tile and the freshly placed tile, then gently press down until your "press" rests on the thickest china tile. Be sure to keep the press as level as possible.

To know if you have used the appropriate amount of thinset, after you pressed, some of the thinset will oozed out the bottom of tile, if you don't see any, add a bit more thinset to the piece and press again. With a little practice you will do it with ease in no time at all.

I have found that it is best to press one piece at a time, and most importantly, clean off the excess thinset from around the bottom of that tile and off the press. If you don't it may hinder the placement of subsequent tiles. (I use toothpicks to clean off the excess thinset)

Be sure the press size is appropriate for the piece you are working on. I have several different press sizes: 4" x4", and 8" x 4" and my table/count/dresser top base press which is about 18" x 12".

As you progress through you mosaic, you will find you are moving further away from your original anchor. Keep in mind that once the thinset has harden (beneath the buttered tiles), that piece may now act as an anchor. Take care to be sure the thinset has completely dried and is hard, otherwise you risk pushing that piece further into the thinset. To know if it is hard enough, gently press with your finger, if there is any softness to it, it is not competely dried. Thinset usually dries within 24 hours.

Now, you may think, why not just spread the thinset in a small area and place several tiles down and press them all at once. Been there, done that! The cleanup was a nightmare! The longer thinset stays on the tiles, the harder it becomes. By cleaning the tops of tiles before the thinset underneath the tile has harden you will risk pushing that tile down lower than the other tiles. Also, most thinsets do not dry white. Having too much thinset in your grout lines will darken white grout.

For smoothness: when grouting, make sure to push the grout well into all the spaces between the tiles and the base (such as a the side walls of a tray). Also, when cleaning the grout off the surface, be very careful not to remove the grout lower than the surface of your china tiles. Your fingers will be the best judge in knowing if you have removed too much grout, as you will feel the sharp sides of the tile edges.

A sponge or damp cloth will remove too much grout if you aren't careful. I use a small rubber float. I lightly squeegee some grout off the surface of the mosaic with the edge of the rubber float, then I clean each china tile one by one, doing my best to avoid the grout lines. I use a damp paper towel. I find that a soft cloth is too thick and you inadvertently wipe off too much from the grout lines.

Again, because you are working with varying thicknesses, you should expect some rough spots and some sharp edges. With a little practice you will be able to keep this to a minimum.

Before smoothing out any sharp corners of the tile, clean the surface of grout residue, then let the piece dry completely. After the piece has dried, using your fingers and palm, lightly feel around the piece for any sharp tile corners. A quick touch of a dremel will smooth it out. I recommend a dremel over a drill as it is easier to lightly grind off that sharp corner without hitting the grout line or taking too much off the tile. If you don't have one and do not wish to invest in one, see if you can borrow one. Otherwise you might try a metal file.

It is more time consuming to apply these methods, but the end results will be well worth it! You will have made a beautiful, quality heirloom piece that you will cherish and proudly display for years to come! You will find yourself running your hands over the smooth and level surface time and again. You will get loads of compliments and when asked "where did you get that beautiful piece?" you will beam with pride as you reply "I made it myself!" ;-)

If you have any questions, feel free to email me. I will be happy to clarify or provide more detail.

Please note, my content is copyright with exclusive rights. Please do not copy my content (text, photographs, illustrations) into any printed form or any form of publication.

Enjoy!